Unit 12

The camper bus wasn't scheduled to depart until 8:30 AM, but I set my alarm for 6:00 so I could spend a little more time calling and searching for a way to get to Barrow (the most northern town in Alaska) from Fairbanks in a few days - and most importantly so I would be sure to have everything ready to go before getting on the bus to drive into the Denali backcountry.

The bus arrived at exactly 8:30 AM and I was waiting for it along with a few other backcountry campers and Wonderlake day-trippers. I started the morning with an uneasy feeling when the bus driver asked for a ticket that I didn't realize I needed to bring and I misplaced my sunglasses. I certainly needed those! A nice man on the bus gave me his extra pair, but I later found mine. I only had to travel 65 miles into the park and even though the ride was beautiful, it took forever! We stopped anytime anyone on the bus spotted any wildlife (and we saw grizzlies, moose and elk) - in addition to about 4 bathroom breaks along the way. The clouds cleared long enough for us to see Mt. McKinley way off in the distance. The driver told us to consider ourselves lucky because most people don't get to see the mountain when they visit the park. In all, the ride took about 4 hours and I stepped off the bus feeling both anxious and exhausted at the same time. Backcountry camping rules dictate that campers may not camp within viewing distance of the gravel road. As I peered off into the valley, I guessed that meant a distance of at least three miles - three miles through bush and glacier beds. However, I was pleased to notice that my chances of total solitude in the backcountry increased when no one else got off at my unit. There are no trails in the backcountry except so-called 'social trails' which are just places where both humans and animals have worn a trail down from frequent use. Backcountry campers are encouraged not to use social trails. However, the bus driver advised me to follow a specific ridge down to the first river crossing after which point I was on my own.

I purchased bear bells the previous evening at the local mercantile and I had tied them to a hiking stick I found at my campsite the previous night. I asked about bear pepper spray, but the store did not carry it. In low visibility terrain (like the bush I was walking through), the backcountry safety video advised campers to call loudly in order to scare off the bears. With my bells a janglin', I developed my bear call: "Heeeeeyyyy, bear. Bear, bear, bear." Over and over. Either my bells or my calls or both were effective for the rest of the day; I didn't see any wildlife until the marmots stared chirping at me near my campsite.

I estimate I traveled 4.5 miles into the valley. It took me six hours and I'll never forget the 'wrong' turn that took me up scrambling alongside a steep rocky hill with a river immediately below. I made frequent stops to change shoes to cross rivers and to take off and put on my rain gear, as it was raining intermittently. Finally, I found the perfect place to camp along side a clear creek and on a soft patch of tundra grass. I was absolutely exhausted, but I was inspired to cook a nice hot dinner (of instant noodles) and then fall into my tent. I went to bed about 8:30. Ahhhh....