Dawson City to Teslin Lake

I set my alarm this morning so that I would be the first in line at Canadian customs at 8:00 AM. Finally, I awoke to sunny skies! I had seen a lot of rain in Alaska and just as I was about to leave, the sun popped out. As soon as I crawled out of my tent, the black lab ran up to me and nearly jumped into my arms. He was so happy to be petted. Then he brought me a block of wood and dropped it at my feet. I chucked it and he fetched it and dropped it at my feet again. This continued while I packed up camp and fixed breakfast. His owner had no idea how close I was to buckling my new little buddy in Conrad's shotgun seat and dashing for the border.

I was first and last in line at Canadian customs. I approached just as the officer was unlocking the gate. The man back in Chicken the night before mentioned that the border agents stationed here must have done something wrong at some point in their careers to be stationed at such a location, but I wasn't so sure. It sure was nice and quiet. And what a view!

So long, Alaska! I continued along the Top of the World Highway for about 60 miles to Dawson City. The town is located only about 180 miles south of the Arctic Circle and was the major base during the 1897-98 Klondike gold rush, at which time it was the second largest city in the West behind San Francisco. Gold is still mined in the area, but Dawson City is now known more for its tourism and as a jumping-off point to adventure seekers. At the edge of town, Conrad and I boarded a ferry to shuttle us across the Yukon River. I was very surprised that there was no bridge! The ferry just went back and forth all day long. The ride took about 5 minutes.

I had a delicious cup of joe at Riverwest Bistro and Coffee Bar and then set off on foot to explore the town. With its gravel roads, boardwalks, and restored false-front buildings, I felt like a prospector ready to head off into the Klondike. But instead of doing that, I bought Canadian dollars and gas and drove off in the opposite direction. Mounds of gold dredges were piled all around for 2 or 3 miles out of town.

From Dawson, I headed south on Highway 2, which intersects the Alaska Highway just west of Whitehorse. Just a few miles short of Whitehorse, I turned to the west for a few miles on Takhini Hot Springs road. I was looking forward to a long soak in the hot springs, then a shower. The 112-degree water has been captured from an underground river and pumped up to a pool for Yukon travelers since the early 1900s. The water is uniquely odorless. (It contains calcium, magnesium, and iron, but no sulfur.) The pool is filled and drained everyday by the river. It was a nice soak and provided a good chance to clean up.

I gassed up in Whitehorse, then pushed on to the east along the Alaska Highway. I stopped for the night at Teslin Lake Provincial Park, cooked dinner, wrote in my journal and went to bed late.