Day of Geysers

Happy Birthday, Sarah! (I know this will get to you late, but I thought I’d get it in here anyway.)

It was a rough night. It snowed and I estimate it was about 20-25 degrees when I woke up. I erected my three-person tent last night in order to spread out a bit and it was caked in ice when I finally dared to venture out of it. I thought my sleeping bag was rated to 0 degrees, but I was still a little chilly. So instead of Poptarts for breakfast, I heated up some oatmeal. That warmed me right up.

I drove the scenic route around the west side of Yellowstone Lake, through West Thumb, and circled back north towards Old Faithful geyser. There were already a lot of people when I arrived by lunchtime. As luck would have it, it spouted off about 5 minutes after I showed up. Throughout the day, I saw a ton of different geysers. I took a few pictures of Old Faithful, then walked the 5-mile loop located in the Old Faithful area and was afforded a scenic viewpoint of the Upper Geyser Basin. I drove north to Lower- and Midway Geyser Basins and hiked mile or two in those areas. My favorite area was The Paint Pots. These are large springs filled with hot clay ranging in color from white and gray to different shades of pink and black.

The day went by too fast, but with all of the walking, I was kinda tired. I developed large blisters on my heels when I was hiking in Teddy Roosevelt. They persist and keep getting agitated. (Hmm, I wonder why?) I will apply my vast knowledge of podiatry to solve that problem.

We are still very early in the tourist season here at Yellowstone, but I had enough of the large crowds. I pushed on to Grand Teton National Park and camped at a sparsely populated campsite called Flagg Ranch just north of the park along the John D. Rockefeller Jr., Memorial Parkway. It was a warm beautiful evening and the mountains in the background made my Kraft macaroni and cheese taste especially delicious.

Chasing Moose

I rose early with the intention of going straight to Mammoth Hot Springs to see about a hot shower. It was snowing. (At least it wasn’t raining!)

As I traveled the gravel road back to the main Yellowstone loop, I passed by two bison – or at least that’s what I thought… one of them looked kinda funny… wait, it’s a moose! He was about 75 yards from the road lolling around in his natural habitat, a marshy plain. I popped out of the car with my camera and tripod to get some close-ups and I shot to my heart’s content. Satisfied, I returned to the car at which point I realized my flash card (i.e. film) wasn’t in my camera – I had taken it out to download the images to my computer. None of the images had been recorded. Dang! I got the card from my car and then scampered back to the plateau where I stood with my camera and I watched as the moose disappeared over a hill. So I gave chase and followed him for about a half mile. It was an awkward, stumbling hike with my camera in one hand and tripod in the other. Finally, I caught up to him. He watched me watching him. I got some good close-ups, but managed not to get too close. At one point, he turned toward me, snorted loudly, shook like a wet dog, and lay down in the grass. I think he was saying either, “I trust you, come pet me” or “If you take one step closer, I will stomp you into a pancake.” I don’t speak moose, so I just left. I stopped a few hundred yards down the road to take a few more shots and a couple that was parked nearby point out a grizzly bear in the distance. A few more miles down the road, I drove right by a black bear, then some elk. Yellowstone is amazing.

So about that shower. The Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel offers them up for $3.25. I even saved myself a buck by bringing my own towel. Showers are wonderful, just like Yellowstone.

I ambled around Mammoth Hot Springs for a few hours, watched the tourists and visited the hot springs. The thermal activity all around Yellowstone (such as the hot springs) is a result of an enormous volcanic eruption 640,000 years ago. Much of the park is located in the crater of the volcano, although one would never realize it because it is so old and covers such a vast area. I learned that the Lewis and Clark expedition somehow missed the Yellowstone area. I was amused by the stories of the subsequent hunters and trappers who visited the Yellowstone area in the early 1800s and how their stories of “hot mud volcanoes” and “water running so fast it boils” were received by the skeptics in the eastern U.S.

It was interesting to learn that 36% of the trees in Yellowstone were destroyed by a forest fire in 1988. However, most ecologists do not consider the event a disaster; they view it as a natural event that introduces a new cycle of growth in the park. This was the guiding philosophy in 1988, although the decision was eventually made to fight the fire. The areas that burned still clearly stand out, because all of the trees and undergrowth were destroyed. What is really amazing was that nearly all of the seeds and nutrients located just under the topsoil remained intact and eventually started the new growth.

I made my way from Mammoth Hot Springs down to Canyon Village in hopes of finding a campsite. But it was snowing there and the campsite was closed. I followed along the Yellowstone River and made stops at the pungent Mud Volcano and Sulfur Caldron. All of the children around me were plugging their noses and accusing the other children of farting. I found a campsite in Lake Village, situated along the northwest bank of Yellowstone Lake.

My not-so-trusty Coleman camp stove conked out on me as I was preparing dinner. Flames were shooting sideways out of it. I tested it twice before I left Edina and everything seemed a “go”. Fortunately, I have a backup. It’s my MSR Dragonfly. It boils a quart of water in no time – and sounds like a jet engine while doing it. (I need something to warm my noodles.)

I plan to explore the lake and the geysers, including Old Faithful, on the west side of the park tomorrow. Then I’ll likely push on to Grand Teton National Park which actually borders Yellowstone to the south.

Enter Yellowstone

Happy Memorial Day Everyone!

Rain again during the night, but the tent kept me warm and dry. My sleeping bag popped a hole and I woke to a snowstorm of goose down floating around the tent. On my way out of the south unit, I stopped in Medora to buy a needle and thread in order to make the repair later.

Due to a real snowstorm, the day turned into a long day of driving! I headed west on Interstate 94 and made it to Billings in short order. It was nice to view a glimpse of the mountains beyond the city as I approached. When I asked about the distance to Yellowstone at the gas station, the clerk told me that I was in luck and Bear Tooth pass on highway 212 had just opened and that I could be there within 2 hours. Great! The road took me through Red Lodge, Montana, and from there turned into about 20 miles of switchbacks up to the pass. I had no inkling the road was actually closed until I came upon a group of other motorists that were hanging out along the pass. It was 25 degrees and snowing and I felt like a goofball as I stepped out of the car in my shorts and t-shirt. I quickly changed into my boots, pants, fleece and jacket and ventured out to follow a group of people equipped with snowboards and skis. They were there to take advantage of this late-season snowfall! I wished I had my board at that moment! They disappeared around the bend and I thought I better get going so I could figure out my route.

I returned to Red Lodge, took 308 to Belfry, then 72 south to 296. Along the way, I crossed into Wyoming. This detour turned out to be a blessing in disguise, because it lead me to the Chief Joseph highway and eventually into Cooke City, which is just outside the northeastern entrance to Yellowstone (my original destination). The route was full of beautiful snowy mountains, interesting rock formations, and grassy plateaus.

I topped off my gas tank in Cooke City (for $3.50 per gallon, premium, ouch) and ventured into the park. With all of the driving, I was kinda tired, so I drove straight to the campground, Slough Creek. As I was cooking dinner, it began to snow. Normally, it would have been kinda pretty, but I was just interested in eating, remaining dry, repairing my sleeping bag, and getting to bed.

Teddy Roosevelt National Park - South Unit

Total Miles driven today: Local Area
Total Miles driven overall: 578

Holy smokes, maybe I packed too much into the day! I’m pooped.

Big thunderstorms last night. I didn’t get a very restful night’s sleep and I rose early. It was chilly - around 40 degrees I estimate – while I ate breakfast. I packed up camp and went to see the sights on the north unit’s 14-mile scenic drive. The sky was extremely overcast and the fog was low – and it was still beautiful. I had the road to myself and I did not see another car the whole time. The north unit I learned later is much less utilized due to its distance from the interstate. The south unit is situated right on it. I passed within spitting distance of several bison. They seem like such nice animals, but they can be dangerous apparently. I kept my distance, but managed to take a couple of good pics. My favorite overlook point is called “River Bend”.

Then I set out to learn a little more about the Buckhorn Trail because I noticed on the map that there would be a few creek crossings. A ranger informed me that there was a 4-ft deep section in the creek that I would need to cross in order to complete the loop. Screw that. I opted for a pleasant little 5-miler called Caprock Coulee. It was great primer trail that led me through dry water gulches and grassy plains. The rain let up, but the low clouds hung in.

As I drove through the welcome center’s parking lot while exiting the north unit I literally had to weave through a group of bison.

I drove 50 miles south to Medora just to check it out. It’s a tiny town (pop. 100) that was established in 1883 by a French nobleman seeking to bring meatpacking to the herd instead of the herd to the meatpacking. It didn’t work out, but Medora has made the most of its fortunate location as the gateway to the park’s south unit. It has a motel and several tourist-y shops. I’ve heard from several people about the Medora Musical, which is presented every night during the summer months in an amphitheater overlooking the badlands. Alas, I was just a few days too early to see it. I picked up on wifi connection in Medora and was able to post my first on-the-road blog entry. I am having a problem uploading pictures, but I am working on it.

I pushed on to the south unit and opted to drive the 35-mile scenic loop. I was not disappointed. It is distinctive from the north unit in that it is more lush and worn, but less colorful. There are several prairie dog towns scattered around the park. I had no idea what that meant (well, I guessed that prairie dogs were involved somehow) and I soon found out that they really are like towns! The prairie dogs congregate in certain prairies and dig their holes within yards of one another. I guess that a couple of the town I saw had more than 100 residents. They sure are cute.

About halfway around the scenic loop, I stopped for a hike at Jones Creek trail. It’s a 7-mile out-and-back hike that led me through the heart of the badlands. It reminded me of hikes I used to take around Naryn, Kyrgyzstan; the creek was almost entirely dry and the hills around it were eroding into it. Crickets clicked all around me throughout the hike. Even the smell was the same; juniper I think. The scenery was breathtaking and the hike was tiring. I passed by some riders on horses. Note to self: Go horseback riding sometime. As it turns out, I couldn’t do Buckhorn, but hikes though Caprock Coulee and Jones Creek made my day.

The weather has improved and as I write this, I am looking out of my tent as the sun is setting on the park, and the bison are passing by.

I’m off to Yellowstone tomorrow.

Teddy Roosevelt National Park - North Unit

Total Miles driven today: 578
Total Miles driven overall: 578

Wow! What a day. I made it all the way to the north unit in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. More about that in a sec.

I got a late start this morning after realizing last night (about midnight) that I needed to downsize so everything could fit in Conrad. I bought a smaller cooler at Cub Foods at about 6:00 A.M., repacked the groceries, and I was on the road by 8:00. It’s all good now!

The drive flew by. I never thought I’d say that about a drive across North Dakota. Yes, most of it was flat. I was surprised to feel a very warm breeze on my face when I stopped for gas just outside Fargo (ya kno-o-o-w). There was always a farm or ranch within sight of the interstate, but I was constantly reminded of the remoteness of life here when I read on most of the exit signs from the highway: “No Services”.

I talked to friends and family while I had cell phone coverage and I rocked to the beat of the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ new album. I caught up on a couple of “The Ricky Gervais Show” Podcasts. Please, oh, please, someone suggest to me some funny/entertaining/interesting Podcasts that I could download. They are perfect for drives across places like North Dakota.

There are two separate “units”, north and south, to Teddy Roosevelt National Park. I drove about 50 miles north off of Interstate 94 to reach the north unit. The south unit is located closer to the interstate. The scenery here is stunning.

Teddy Roosevelt is quickly becoming a hero of mine. Who besides Teddy in the early 1900’s had the sense and passion to set aside so many hundreds of thousands of acres of wilderness so we could enjoy it? This park alone is over 70,000 acres. Thank you, Teddy. You especially deserve this park that is your namesake. It is remote, but so beautiful. Here, the Little Missouri River has cut through the Dakota grasslands to leave a moonlike landscape. One of my guidebooks quotes a General Alfred Sully who, in 1864, described the area as “hell with the fires put out.” These are badlands. The area reminds me of the Grand Canyon, just not as deep and with grasslands and swamps at the bases of the colorful rock formations.

Tonight, I staked my tent (thanks again, Steve!) at the Juniper Campground, fine-tuned the way things are organized in my trunk, cooked some pasta, and then went for a quick 1.5 mile hike – a loop around the Little Mo Trail which contained all the primary features of the park; the river, the swamps, the grasslands, and the carved rock formations.

It’s early to bed tonight and early to rise tomorrow. Most likely, I will do a 12 mile day-hike around the Buckhorn Trail. (A rabbit just popped out of the grass about six feet from where I am sitting. Tomorrow night’s dinner?) The trail cuts through sagebrush flats, badlands, and it skirts a prairie dog town. Following that, I will likely head back to the south unit for a hike and to spend the night.

The picture is just one of me at my campsite. I’ll get some better shots of the park later.

Medora, ho!

Estimated Time of Departure for Destination Alaska: Saturday, May 27, 2006, 7:00 A.M. CST !!!

How is it possible that it's been 15 days since I retired and I'm scampering around like Barry Sanders trying to get packed and out the door the day before my departure??? ... I certainly can't complain though; I had a wonderful time in Texas and Louisiana visiting with my friend and family. I've been back in the Twin Cities since Monday and have been busy shopping and making arrangements to be gone. That's all done now and I need to start packing the car.

In all of the chaos, I had time for one last sail on Lake Harriett this afternoon and I will grill and sit down to watch Francisco Liriano, the Minnesota Twins' hot new rookie hurler, strike out all of the Seattle Mariners tonight.

My destination tomorrow is Medora, North Dakota, so I can spend a couple days exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Medora is located 565.84 miles away from my apartment. My software tells me I can cover that asphalt in 8 hours and 19 minutes. I'll bet I'll get there faster than that.

I'll start updating my blog more frequently now, assuming I have coverage.

Free Agency

Effective immediately, I am temporarily retired! I wrapped things up at my jay oh bee today. I said good-bye to my colleagues, friends, and associates. I will miss them, but I am excited for my new adventure!

In the midst of preparing for the long journey, plans have changed a bit. Instead of stretching his legs on a road trip to Texas and Louisiana, Conrad will rest quietly in the garage. He underwent some major replacement surgery this morning; new tie rods, rotors, brake pads and a new alternator. (The Teamsters ended their strike yesterday and were apparently very eager to get back to work.) I purchased medical insurance for Conrad today: AAA.

So instead of driving, I will fly to Dallas / Fort Worth and rent a car from there to loop through Shreveport and Houston. My flight leaves tomorrow afternoon. I’ll be back on the 22nd and spend a few more days packing and preparing for Destination: Alaska! I will most likely hit the road by the 27th.

My National Parks Pass arrived last week. I will need a replacement pass by the time I return from the trip. I am still waiting for my passport. With any luck, it will be waiting for me when I return from The South.

Brought to you by…

A little bit about the technology that is making this trip possible.

All I really need for this trip is a car, some money, and an atlas. Hmm, I suppose the car and the atlas are debatably unnecessary as long as I have enough money. But I love gadgets! Most importantly, I want to conveniently maintain my blog about my journey along the way.

Internet Access … I am bringing my computer with me. It is a small (12.1” screen), lightweight (4.6 lbs) laptop. While shopping for Internet access options, my goal was to gain as geographically broad mobile Internet coverage as possible (within monetary reason). I found it with T-Mobile. (T-Mobile, please credit my account for this free advertising.) I upgraded my cell phone so I can run a cable from it to my laptop and obtain approximately 3x dial-up speed access wherever I have cell phone coverage. T-Mobile’s network is broad, so I expect to have Internet access in all the states I pass through, as well as the Vancouver area in British Columbia.

Power … I bought a power inverter. I don’t know what it means to “invert” power, but I do know that when I plug it into my car’s cigarette lighter, I can then plug my iPod, laptop, and cell phone into the inverter and they will charge.

Navigation … Imagine Mapquest or Yahoo Maps on growth hormones and you have Microsoft Streets & Trips 2006. I purchased this software to: 1) Help track my progress on the trip, and; 2) Help me locate any amenities I might need along the way. I used it to calculate my total mileage (8,856 mi.). I can use it to find ATMs, gas stations, restaurants and most importantly campsites (more about that later) along the way. All I do is click on a point on the map, select a radius distance and the software will show all desired amenities within the radius, including their addresses and phone numbers if applicable.

Conrad: King of the Highway

Conrad is my ride. He is a dark green 1995 Lincoln Continental and has served me well since my grandpa kindly sold him to me in 2001. Conrad has logged 116,000 miles in his lifetime. Before setting out to Alaska, I will put him through his paces - about 2,600 miles worth of paces - on a roundtrip from Minneapolis to Princeton (TX), Shreveport (LA), and Houston to see friends and family.

Conrad weighs in at 3,911 lbs. He is 206 inches long, 73 inches wide, 56 inches tall and has a 109-inch wheelbase. He has a 4.6 liter, V8 engine that develops 260 horsepower. It’s a very comfortable ride. Kinda like driving a boat across a glassy lake... in heaven. I am counting on that big wheel base to smooth the bumps on the thousands of miles of road north of Vancouver to Alaska. With any luck, I’ll get 17 mpg in the cities and 25 mpg on the highways.

I plan to bring Conrad to the doctor for a checkup while I am in Texas. I would like to have done that in Minneapolis, but alas the Teamsters Union Local 974 decided to strike on April 17 – and the union represents local auto mechanics! The poor service manager at my service garage, Dean, was distraught when I spoke with him; He doesn’t expect the teamsters to be back on the job until at least mid May! http://twincities.bizjournals.com/twincities/stories/2006/04/17/daily11.html

I installed a new JVC CD deck a few weeks ago. I was not as interested in the CD player as I was in the auxiliary input that will allow me to plug my iPod into the sound system. (I've got a 4GB Nano, for you iPod buffs. "1000 songs ... in Conrad".) Please tell me about any cool music! I’ve got lots of room on my iPod for more songs.

I will join AAA before I start my journey. Just in case.